1. Introduction

This Section Covers

• 1.1    Commercial Driver License Tests
• 1.2    Driver Disqualifications
• 1.3    Other Safety Rules

There is a federal requirement that each state have minimum standards for the licensing of commercial drivers.

This manual provides driver license testing information for drivers who wish to have a commercial driver license (CDL). This manual does NOT provide information on all the federal and state requirements needed before you can drive a commercial motor vehicle (CMV). Information for CMV operation requirements may be obtained from the Florida Department of Transportation, Office of Motor Carrier Compliance, or the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration.

You must have a CDL to operate:

• Any single vehicle with a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of 26,001 pounds or more.
• A trailer with a GVWR of more than 10,000 pounds if the gross combination weight rating (GCWR) is 26,001 pounds or more.
• A vehicle designed to transport 16 or more passengers (including the driver).
• Any size vehicle that is used in the transportation of any material that requires hazardous materials placards or any quantity of a material listed as a select agent or toxin in 42 CFR 73.

To get a CDL, you must pass knowledge and skills tests. This manual will help you pass the tests. This manual is not a substitute for a truck driver training class or program. Formal training is the most reliable way to learn the many special skills required for safely driving a large commercial vehicle and becoming a professional driver in the trucking industry.

Figure 1.1 helps you determine if you need a CDL.

Figure 1-1

1.1.1 Knowledge Tests

You will have to take one or more knowledge tests, depending on what class of license and what endorsements you need. The CDL knowledge tests include:

• The general knowledge test, taken by all applicants.
• The passenger transport test, taken by all bus driver applicants.
• The air brakes test, which you must take if your vehicle has air brakes, including air over hydraulic brakes.
• The combination vehicles test, which is required if you want to drive combination vehicles.
• The hazardous materials test, required if you want to haul hazardous materials or waste in amounts that require placarding or any quantity of a material listed as a select agent or toxin in 42 CFR 73.
• The tanker test, required if you want to haul a liquid or liquid gas in a permanently mounted cargo tank rated at 119 gallons or more or a portable tank rated at 1,000 gallons or more.
• The doubles/triples test, required if you want to pull double or triple trailers.
• The School Bust test, required if you want to drive a school bus.

1.1.2 Skills Tests

Figure 1.2

If you pass the required knowledge test(s), you can take the CDL skills tests. There are three types of general skills that will be tested: pre-trip inspection, basic vehicle control, and on-road driving. You must take these tests in the type of vehicle for which you wish to be licensed.

Pre-trip Vehicle Inspection. You will be tested to see if you know whether your vehicle is safe to drive. You will be asked to do a pre-trip inspection of your vehicle and explain to the examiner what you would inspect and why.

Basic Vehicle Control. You will be tested on your skill to control the vehicle. You will be asked to move your vehicle forward, backward, and turn it within a defined area. These areas may be marked with traffic lanes, cones, barriers, or something similar. The examiner will tell you how each control test is to be done.

On-road Test. You will be tested on your skill to safely drive your vehicle in a variety of traffic situations. The situations may include left and right turns, intersections, railroad crossings, curves, up and down grades, single or multi-lane roads, streets, or highways. The examiner will tell you where to drive.

Figure 1.2 details which sections of this manual you should study for each particular class of license and for each endorsement.

1.2.1 General

You may not drive a commercial motor vehicle if you are disqualified for any reason. Offenses causing disqualifications are listed in Chapter 322.61, Florida Statutes. They include but are not limited to:

1.2.2 Alcohol, Leaving the Scene of an Accident, and Commission of a Felony

It is illegal to operate a CMV if your blood alcohol concentration (BAC) is .04% or more. If you operate a CMV, you shall be deemed to have given your consent to alcohol testing.

You will lose your CDL for at least one year for a first offense for:

• Driving a CMV if your blood alcohol concentration is .04% or higher.
• Driving a CMV under the influence of alcohol.
• Refusing to undergo blood alcohol testing.
• Driving a CMV while under the influence of a controlled substance.
• Leaving the scene of an accident involving a CMV.
• Committing a felony involving the use of a CMV.

You will lose your CDL for at least three years if the offense occurs while you are operating a CMV that is placarded for hazardous materials.

You will lose your CDL for life for a second offense.

You will lose your CDL for life if you use a CMV to commit a felony involving controlled substances.

You will be put out-of-service for 24 hours if you have any detectable amount of alcohol under .04%.

1.2.3 Serious Traffic Violations

Serious traffic violations are excessive speeding (15 mph or more above the posted limit), reckless driving, improper or erratic lane changes, following a vehicle too closely, and traffic offenses committed in a CMV in connection with fatal traffic accidents.

You will lose your CDL:

• For at least 60 days if you have committed two serious traffic violations within a three-year period involving a CMV.
• For at least 120 days for three serious traffic violations within a three-year period involving a CMV.

1.2.4 Violation of Out-of-Service Orders

You will lose your CDL:

• For at least 90 days if you have committed your first violation of an out-of-service violation order.
• For at least one year if you have committed two out-of-service violation orders in a ten-year period.
• For at least three years if you have committed three or more out-of-service violation orders in a ten-year period.

1.2.5 Railroad-highway Grade Crossing Violations

You will lose your CDL:

• For at least 60 days for your first violation.
• For at least 120 days for your second violation within any three-year period.
• For at least one year for your third violation within any three-year period.

These violations include violation of a federal, state or local law or regulation pertaining to one of the following six offenses at a railroad-highway grade crossing:

• For drivers who are not required to always stop, failing to stop before reaching the crossing if the tracks are not clear.
• For drivers who are not required to always stop, failing to slow down and check that the tracks are clear of an approaching train.
• For drivers who are always required to stop, failing to stop before driving onto the crossing.
• For all drivers failing to have sufficient space to drive completely through the crossing without stopping.
• For all drivers failing to obey a traffic control device or the directions of an enforcement official at the crossing.
• For all drivers failing to negotiate a crossing because of insufficient undercarriage clearance.

1.2.6 Hazardous Materials Endorsement Background Check and Disqualifications

If you require a hazardous materials endorsement you will be required to submit your fingerprints and be subject to a background check.

You will be denied or you will lose your hazardous materials endorsement if you:

• Are not a lawful permanent resident of the United States.
• Renounce your United States citizenship.
• Are wanted or under indictment for certain felonies.
• Have a conviction in military or civilian court for certain felonies.
• Have been adjudicated as a mental defective or committed to a mental institution.
• Are considered to pose a security threat as determined by the Transportation Security Administration.
• Florida CDL’s with a hazardous materials endorsement are issued for a period of 4 years and may be renewed up to 1 year before they expire. Drivers holding a CDL with a hazardous materials endorsement are encouraged to renew early to avoid ineligibility for transporting hazardous materials while awaiting results of their security checks.
• A background check fee of $91.00 is charged to customers for new or renewed hazardous materials endorsements, in addition to other fees for CDL issuance.
• Information and on-line forms to begin the application process for Florida CDL hazardous materials endorsement can be found at www.hsmv.state.fl.us/hazmat.

1.3. Other CDL Rules

There are other federal and state rules that affect drivers operating CMVs in all states. Among them are:

• You cannot have more than one license. If you break this rule, a court may fine you up to $5,000 or put you in jail and keep your home state license and return any others.
• You must notify your employer within 30 days of conviction for any traffic violations (except parking). This is true no matter what type of vehicle you were driving.
• You must notify the Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles within 30 days if you are convicted in any other jurisdiction of any traffic violation (except parking). This is true no matter what type of vehicle you were driving. The written notification must be mailed to Bureau of Driver Records, Neil Kirkman Building, 2900 Apalachee Parkway, Mail Stop 91, Tallahassee, Florida 32399-0575.
• You must notify your employer if your license is suspended, revoked, or canceled, or if you are disqualified from driving.
• You must give your employer information on all driving jobs you have held for the past 10 years. You must do this when you apply for a commercial driving job.
• No one can drive a commercial motor vehicle without a CDL. A court may fine you up to $5,000 or put you in jail for breaking this rule.
• If you have a hazardous materials endorsement you must notify and surrender your hazardous materials endorsement to the state that issued your CDL within 24 hours of any conviction or indictment in any jurisdiction, civilian or military, for, or found not guilty by reason of insanity of a disqualifying crime listed in 49 CFR 1572.103; who is adjudicated as a mental defective or committed to a mental institution as specified in 49 CFR 1572.109; or who renounces his or her U. S. citizenship;
• Your employer may not let you drive a commercial motor vehicle if you have more than one license or if your CDL is suspended or revoked. A court may fine the employer up to $5,000 or put him/her in jail for breaking this rule.
• All states are connected to one computerized system to share information about CDL drivers. The states will check on drivers' accident records and be sure that drivers do not have more than one CDL.
• Florida CDL holders are not eligible to elect completion of a driver improvement school to avoid assessment of points for traffic tickets, regardless of whether the violation was committed in a CMV.

To obtain a Commercial Driver's License you must:

• Be a resident of Florida.
• Be at least 18 years of age to drive intrastate and 21 years of age to drive interstate. You must be at least 21 years of age to qualify for the hazardous materials endorsement.
• Surrender any and all other driver licenses issued by Florida or any other state.
• Not be under suspension, revocation, cancellation or disqualification in Florida or any other state.
• Submit a valid medical report or card, if you are required to hold this document.
• Provide proof of your social security number such as the social security card itself or your W-2 Form (photocopies are not acceptable).
• Pass all required tests and pay the proper license fee.
• Must be in compliance with the vision and physical requirements as stated in Part 391 of the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Regulations Handbook.

CDL Exemptions:

Drivers of the following vehicles which otherwise meet the definition of a commercial vehicle are exempt by law from having to obtain a CDL:

• Military Vehicles - Vehicles operated by members of the armed forces.
• Authorized Emergency Vehicles - These vehicles include, but are not limited to, ambulances, law enforcement and fire trucks equipped with red and blue lights and audible devices (sirens).
• Farmers - Transporting farm supplies, farm machinery or agriculture products, to or from the owners farm. Not used in the operations of a common or contract motor carrier; and used within 150 miles of the farmer’s farm.
• Farmer, as defined by Florida Statute 322.01(18), means a person who grows agricultural products, including aquacultural, horticultural and forestry products, and, except as provided herein, employees of such persons. The term does not include employees whose primary purpose of employment is the operation of motor vehicles.
• Recreation Vehicles - A vehicle that is primarily designed as temporary living quarters for recreational, camping, or travel use, which either has its own motive power or is mounted on or drawn by another vehicle. Recreational vehicle-type units, must comply with the length and width provisions of Florida Statutes, 316.515, when traveling on the public roadways of this state. Please see Florida Statutes 320.01 for more information regarding recreation vehicles.
• Straight Trucks - as defined in 316.033, Florida Statutes, that are exclusively transporting their own tangible personal property that is not for sale.

Fees:

Fees for a commercial driver licenses will be $50 for the initial issue and renewal. Fees for customers who have received school bus training and are applying for employment or employed by a public or non-public school system will be $20 for the initial issue and $15 for renewal. Each endorsement is $5. There is a $5 fee for written re-exams and a $10 fee for driving re-exams.

This Section Covers

• 2.1. Vehicle Inspection
• 2.2. Basic Control of Your Vehicle
• 2.3. Shifting Gears
• 2.4. Seeing
• 2.5. Communicating
• 2.6. Controlling Speed
• 2.7. Managing Space
• 2.8. Seeing Hazards
• 2.9. Distracted Driving
• 2.10. Aggressive Drivers/Road Rage
• 2.11. Driving at Night
• 2.12. Driving in Fog
• 2.13. Driving in Winter
• 2.14. Driving in Very Hot Weather
• 2.15. Railroad-highway Crossings
• 2.16. Mountain Driving
• 2.17. Driving Emergencies
• 2.18. Antilock Braking Systems (ABS)
• 2.19. Skid Control and Recovery
• 2.20. Accident Procedures
• 2.21. Fires
• 2.22. Alcohol, Other Drugs, and Driving
• 2.23. Staying Alert and Fit to Drive
• 2.24. Hazardous Materials Rules For All Commercial Drivers

This section contains knowledge and safe driving information that all commercial drivers should know. You must pass a test on this information to get a CDL. This section does not have specific information on air brakes, combination vehicles, doubles, or passenger vehicles. When preparing for the Pre-trip Inspection Test, you must review the material in Section 11 in addition to the information in this section. This section does have basic information on hazardous materials (HazMat) that all drivers should know. If you need a HazMat endorsement, you should study Section 9.

2.1    Vehicle Inspection

2.1.1 Why Inspect

Safety is the most important reason you inspect your vehicle, safety for yourself and for other road users.

A vehicle defect found during an inspection could save you problems later. You could have a breakdown on the road that will cost time and dollars, or even worse, a crash caused by the defect.

Federal and state laws require that drivers inspect their vehicles. Federal and state inspectors also may inspect your vehicles. If they judge the vehicle to be unsafe, they will put it "out of service" until it is fixed.

2.1.2 Types of Vehicle Inspection

Pre-trip Inspection. A pre-trip inspection will help you find problems that could cause a crash or breakdown.

During a Trip. For safety you should:

After-trip Inspection and Report. You should do an after-trip inspection at the end of the trip, day, or tour of duty on each vehicle you operated. It may include filling out a vehicle condition report listing any problems you find. The inspection report helps a motor carrier know when the vehicle needs repairs.

2.1.3 What to Look For

Tire Problems

• Too much or too little air pressure.
• Bad wear. You need at least 4/32-inch tread depth in every major groove on front tires. You need 2/32 inch on other tires. No fabric should show through the tread or sidewall.
• Cuts or other damage.
• Tread separation.
• Dual tires that come in contact with each other or parts of the vehicle.
• Mismatched sizes.
• Radial and bias-ply tires used together.
• Cut or cracked valve stems.
• Regrooved, recapped, or retreaded tires on the front wheels of a bus. These are prohibited.

Wheel and Rim Problems

• Damaged rims.
• Rust around wheel nuts may mean the nuts are loose--check tightness. After a tire has been changed, stop a short while later and re-check tightness of nuts.
• Missing clamps, spacers, studs, or lugs means danger.
• Mismatched, bent, or cracked lock rings are dangerous.
• Wheels or rims that have had welding repairs are not safe.

Figure 2-1

Figure 2-2

Figure 2-3

Figure 2-4

Bad Brake Drums or Shoes

• Cracked drums.
• Shoes or pads with oil, grease, or brake fluid on them.
• Shoes worn dangerously thin, missing, or broken.

Steering System Defects

• Missing nuts, bolts, cotter keys, or other parts.
• Bent, loose, or broken parts, such as steering column, steering gear box, or tie rods.
• If power steering equipped, check hoses, pumps, and fluid level; check for leaks.
• Steering wheel play of more than 10 degrees (approximately 2 inches movement at the rim of a 20-inch steering wheel) can make it hard to steer.

Figure 2.1 illustrates a typical steering system.

Suspension System Defects. The suspension system holds up the vehicle and its load. It keeps the axles in place. Therefore, broken suspension parts can be extremely dangerous. Look for:

• Spring hangers that allow movement of axle from proper position. See Figure 2.2.
• Cracked or broken spring hangers.
• Missing or broken leaves in any leaf spring. If one-fourth or more are missing, it will put the vehicle "out of service", but any defect could be dangerous. See Figure 2.3.
• Broken leaves in a multi-leaf spring or leaves that have shifted so they might hit a tire or other part.
• Leaking shock absorbers.
• Torque rod or arm, u-bolts, spring hangers, or other axle positioning parts that are cracked, damaged, or missing.
• Air suspension systems that are damaged and/or leaking. See Figure 2.4.
• Any loose, cracked, broken, or missing frame members.

Exhaust System Defects. A broken exhaust system can let poison fumes into the cab or sleeper berth. Look for:

• Loose, broken, or missing exhaust pipes, mufflers, tailpipes, or vertical stacks.
• Loose, broken, or missing mounting brackets, clamps, bolts, or nuts.
• Exhaust system parts rubbing against fuel system parts, tires, or other moving parts of vehicle.
• Exhaust system parts that are leaking.

Emergency Equipment. Vehicles must be equipped with emergency equipment. Look for:

• Fire extinguisher(s).
• Spare electrical fuses (unless equipped with circuit breakers).
• Warning devices for parked vehicles (for example, three reflective warning triangles).

Cargo (Trucks). You must make sure the truck is not overloaded and the cargo is balanced and secured before each trip. If the cargo contains hazardous materials, you must inspect for proper papers and placarding.

2.1.4 CDL Pre-trip Vehicle Inspection Test

In order to obtain a CDL you will be required to pass a pre-trip vehicle inspection test. You will be tested to see if you know whether your vehicle is safe to drive. You will be asked to do a pre-trip inspection of your vehicle and explain to the examiner what you would inspect and why. The following seven-step inspection method should be useful.

2.1.5 Seven-step Inspection Method

Method of Inspection. You should do a pre-trip inspection the same way each time so you will learn all the steps and be less likely to forget something.

Approaching the Vehicle. Notice general condition. Look for damage or vehicle leaning to one side. Look under the vehicle for fresh oil, coolant, grease, or fuel leaks. Check the area around the vehicle for hazards to vehicle movement (people, other vehicles, objects, low-hanging wires, limbs, etc.).

Vehicle Inspection Guide

Step 1: Vehicle Overview

Review Last Vehicle Inspection Report. Drivers may have to make a vehicle inspection report in writing each day. The motor carrier must repair any items in the report that affect safety and certify on the report that repairs were made or were unnecessary. You must sign the report only if defects were noted and certified to be repaired or not needed to be repaired.

Step 2: Check Engine Compartment

Check That the Parking Brakes Are On and/or Wheels Chocked. You may have to raise the hood, tilt the cab (secure loose things so they don't fall and break something), or open the engine compartment door. Check the following:

• Engine oil level.
• Coolant level in radiator; condition of hoses.
• Power steering fluid level; hose condition (if so equipped).
• Windshield washer fluid level.
• Battery fluid level, connections, and tie downs (battery may be located elsewhere).
• Automatic transmission fluid level (may require engine to be running).
• Check belts for tightness and excessive wear (alternator, water pump, air compressor)--learn how much "give" the belts should have when adjusted right, and check each one.
• Leaks in the engine compartment (fuel, coolant, oil, power steering fluid, hydraulic fluid, battery fluid).
• Cracked, worn electrical wiring insulation.

Lower and secure hood, cab, or engine compartment door.

Step 3: Start Engine and Inspect Inside the Cab

Get In and Start Engine

• Make sure parking brake is on.
• Put gearshift in neutral (or "park" if automatic).
• Start engine; listen for unusual noises.

Figure 2-5

Look at the Gauges

• Oil pressure. Should come up to normal within seconds after engine is started. See Figure 2.5
• Air pressure. Pressure should build from 50 to 90 psi within 3 minutes.
• Ammeter and/or voltmeter. Should be in normal range(s).
• Coolant temperature. Should begin gradual rise to normal operating range.
• Engine oil temperature. Should begin gradual rise to normal operating range.
• Warning lights and buzzers. Oil, coolant, charging circuit warning, and antilock brake system lights should go out right away.

Check Condition of Controls. Check all of the following for looseness, sticking, damage, or improper setting:

• Steering wheel.
• Clutch.
• Accelerator ("gas pedal").
• Brake controls.
  • Foot brake.
  • Trailer brake (if vehicle has one).
  • Parking brake.
  • Retarder controls (if vehicle has them).
• Transmission controls.
• Interaxle differential lock (if vehicle has one).
• Horn(s).
• Windshield wiper/washer.
• Lights.
  • Headlights.
  • Dimmer switch.
  • Turn signal.
  • Four-way flashers.
  • Parking, clearance, identification, marker switch(es).

Check Mirrors and Windshield. Inspect mirrors and windshield for cracks, dirt, illegal stickers, or other obstructions to seeing clearly. Clean and adjust as necessary.

Check Emergency Equipment

• Check for safety equipment:
  • Spare electrical fuses (unless vehicle has circuit breakers).
  • Three red reflective triangles.
  • Properly charged and rated fire extinguisher.
• Check for optional items such as:
  • Chains (where winter conditions require).
  • Tire changing equipment.
• List of emergency phone numbers.
• Accident reporting kit (packet).

Step 4: Turn Off Engine and Check Lights

Make sure the parking brake is set, turn off the engine, and take the key with you. Turn on headlights (low beams) and four-way emergency flashers, and get out of the vehicle.

Step 5: Do Walkaround Inspection

• Go to front of vehicle and check that low beams are on and both of the four-way flashers are working.
• Push dimmer switch and check that high beams work.
• Turn off headlights and four-way emergency flashers.
• Turn on parking, clearance, side-marker, and identification lights.
• Turn on right turn signal, and start walk-around inspection.

General

• Walkaround and inspect.
• Clean all lights, reflectors, and glass as you go along.

Left Front Side

• Driver's door glass should be clean.
• Door latches or locks should work properly.
• Left front wheel.
  • Condition of wheel and rim--missing, bent, broken studs, clamps, lugs, or any signs of misalignment.
  • Condition of tires--properly inflated, valve stem and cap OK, no serious cuts, bulges, or tread wear.
  • Use wrench to test rust-streaked lug nuts, indicating looseness.
  • Hub oil level OK, no leaks.
• Left front suspension.
  • Condition of spring, spring hangers, shackles, u-bolts.
  • Shock absorber condition.
• Left front brake.
  • Condition of brake drum or disc.
  • Condition of hoses.

Front

• Condition of front axle.
• Condition of steering system.
  • No loose, worn, bent, damaged or missing parts.
  • Must grab steering mechanism to test for looseness.
• Condition of windshield.
  • Check for damage and clean if dirty.
  • Check windshield wiper arms for proper spring tension.
  • Check wiper blades for damage, "stiff" rubber, and securement.
• Lights and reflectors.
  • Parking, clearance, and identification lights clean, operating, and proper color (amber at front).
  • Reflectors clean and proper color (amber at front).
  • Right front turn signal light clean, operating, and proper color (amber or white on signals facing forward).

Right Side

• Right front: check all items as done on left front.
• Primary and secondary safety cab locks engaged (if cab-over-engine design).
• Right fuel tank(s).
  • Securely mounted, not damaged, or leaking.
  • Fuel crossover line secure.
  • Tank(s) contain enough fuel.
  • Cap(s) on and secure.
• Condition of visible parts.
  • Rear of engine--not leaking.
  • Transmission--not leaking.
  • Exhaust system--secure, not leaking, not touching wires, fuel, or air lines.
  • Frame and cross members--no bends or cracks.
  • Air lines and electrical wiring--secured against snagging, rubbing, wearing.
  • Spare tire carrier or rack not damaged (if so equipped).
  • Spare tire and/or wheel securely mounted in rack.
  • Spare tire and wheel adequate (proper size, properly inflated).
• Cargo securement (trucks).
  • Cargo properly blocked, braced, tied, chained, etc.
  • Header board adequate, secure (if required).
  • Side boards, stakes strong enough, free of damage, properly set in place (if so equipped).
  • Canvas or tarp (if required) properly secured to prevent tearing, billowing, or blocking of mirrors.
  • If oversize, all required signs (flags, lamps, and reflectors) safely and properly mounted and all required permits in driver's possession.
  • Curbside cargo compartment doors in good condition, securely closed, latched/locked and required security seals in place.

Right Rear

• Condition of wheels and rims--no missing, bent, or broken spacers, studs, clamps, or lugs.
• Condition of tires--properly inflated, valve stems and caps OK, no serious cuts, bulges, tread wear, tires not rubbing each other, and nothing stuck between them.
• Tires same type, e.g., not mixed radial and bias types.
• Tires evenly matched (same sizes).
• Wheel bearing/seals not leaking.
• Suspension.
  • Condition of spring(s), spring hangers, shackles, and u-bolts.
  • Axle secure.
  • Powered axle(s) not leaking lube (gear oil).
  • Condition of torque rod arms, bushings.
  • Condition of shock absorber(s).
  • If retractable axle equipped, check condition of lift mechanism. If air powered, check for leaks.
  • Condition of air ride components.
• Brakes.
  • Brake adjustment.
  • Condition of brake drum(s) or discs.
  • Condition of hoses--look for any wear due to rubbing.
• Lights and reflectors.
  • Side-marker lights clean, operating, and proper color (red at rear, others amber).
  • Side-marker reflectors clean and proper color (red at rear, others amber).

Rear

• Lights and reflectors.
  • Rear clearance and identification lights clean, operating, and proper color (red at rear).
  • Reflectors clean and proper color (red at rear).
  • Taillights clean, operating, and proper color (red at rear).
  • Right rear turn signal operating, and proper color (red, yellow, or amber at rear).
• License plate(s) present, clean, and secured.
• Splash guards present, not damaged, properly fastened, not dragging on ground, or rubbing tires.
• Cargo secure (trucks).
• Cargo properly blocked, braced, tied, chained, etc.
• Tailboards up and properly secured.
• End gates free of damage, properly secured in stake sockets.
• Canvas or tarp (if required) properly secured to prevent tearing, billowing, or blocking of either the rearview mirrors or rear lights.
• If over-length, or over-width, make sure all signs and/or additional lights/flags are safely and properly mounted and all required permits are in driver's possession.
• Rear doors securely closed, latched/locked.

Left Side

• Check all items as done on right side, plus:
  • Battery(ies) (if not mounted in engine compartment).
  • Battery box(es) securely mounted to vehicle.
  • Box has secure cover.
  • Battery(ies) secured against movement.
  • Battery(ies) not broken or leaking.
  • Fluid in battery(ies) at proper level (except maintenance-free type).
  • Cell caps present and securely tightened (except maintenance-free type).
  • Vents in cell caps free of foreign material (except maintenance-free type).

Step 6: Check Signal Lights

Get In and Turn Off Lights

• Turn off all lights.
• Turn on stop lights (apply trailer hand brake or have a helper put on the brake pedal).
• Turn on left turn signal lights.

Get Out and Check Lights

• Left front turn signal light clean, operating and proper color (amber or white on signals facing the front).
• Left rear turn signal light and both stop lights clean, operating, and proper color (red, yellow, or amber).

Get In Vehicle

• Turn off lights not needed for driving.
• Check for all required papers, trip manifests, permits, etc.
• Secure all loose articles in cab (they might interfere with operation of the controls or hit you in a crash).
• Start the engine.

Step 7: Start the Engine and Check

Test for Hydraulic Leaks. If the vehicle has hydraulic brakes, pump the brake pedal three times. Then apply firm pressure to the pedal and hold for five seconds. The pedal should not move. If it does, there may be a leak or other problem. Get it fixed before driving. If the vehicle has air brakes, do the checks described in Sections 5 and 6 of this manual.

Brake System

Test Parking Brake

• Fasten seat belt.
• Allow vehicle to move forward slowly.
• Apply parking brake.
• If it doesn't stop vehicle, it is faulty; get it fixed.

Test Service Brake Stopping Action

• Go about five miles per hour.
• Push brake pedal firmly
• "Pulling" to one side or the other can mean brake trouble.
• Any unusual brake pedal "feel" or delayed stopping action can mean trouble.

If you find anything unsafe during the pre-trip inspection, get it fixed. Federal and state laws forbid operating an unsafe vehicle.

2.1.6 Inspection During a Trip

Check Vehicle Operation Regularly

You should check:

• Instruments.
• Air pressure gauge (if you have air brakes).
• Temperature gauges.
• Pressure gauges.
• Ammeter/voltmeter.
• Mirrors.
• Tires.
• Cargo, cargo covers.

If you see, hear, smell, or feel anything that might mean trouble, check it out.

Safety Inspection. Drivers of trucks and truck tractors when transporting cargo must inspect the securement of the cargo within the first 50 miles of a trip and every 150 miles or every three hours (whichever comes first) after.

2.1.7 After-trip Inspection and Report

You may have to make a written report each day on the condition of the vehicle(s) you drove. Report anything affecting safety or possibly leading to mechanical breakdown.

2.2    Driving Safely

To drive a vehicle safely, you must be able to control its speed and direction. Safe operation of a commercial vehicle requires skill in:

• Accelerating.
• Steering.
• Stopping.
• Backing safely.

Fasten your seatbelt when on the road. Apply the parking brake when you leave your vehicle.

2.2.1 Accelerating

Don't roll back when you start. You may hit someone behind you. If you have a manual transmission vehicle, partly engage the clutch before you take your right foot off the brake. Put on the parking brake whenever necessary to keep from rolling back. Release the parking brake only when you have applied enough engine power to keep from rolling back. On a tractor-trailer equipped with a trailer brake hand valve, the hand valve can be applied to keep from rolling back.

Speed up smoothly and gradually so the vehicle does not jerk. Rough acceleration can cause mechanical damage. When pulling a trailer, rough acceleration can damage the coupling.

Speed up very gradually when traction is poor, as in rain or snow. If you use too much power, the drive wheels may spin. You could lose control. If the drive wheels begin to spin, take your foot off the accelerator.

2.2.2 Steering

Hold the steering wheel firmly with both hands. Your hands should be on opposite sides of the wheel. If you hit a curb or a pothole (chuckhole), the wheel could pull away from your hands unless you have a firm hold.

2.2.3 Stopping

Push the brake pedal down gradually. The amount of brake pressure you need to stop the vehicle will depend on the speed of the vehicle and how quickly you need to stop. Control the pressure so the vehicle comes to a smooth, safe stop. If you have a manual transmission, push the clutch in when the engine is close to idle.

2.2.4 Backing Safely

Because you cannot see everything behind your vehicle, backing is always dangerous. Avoid backing whenever you can. When you park, try to park so you will be able to pull forward when you leave. When you have to back, here are a few simple safety rules:

• Start in the proper position.
• Look at your path.
• Use mirrors on both sides.
• Back slowly.
• Back and turn toward the driver's side whenever possible.
• Use a helper whenever possible.
• These rules are discussed in turn below.

Start in the Proper Position. Put the vehicle in the best position to allow you to back safely. This position will depend on the type of backing to be done.

Look at Your Path. Look at your line of travel before you begin. Get out and walk around the vehicle. Check your clearance to the sides and overhead, in and near the path your vehicle will take.

Use Mirrors on Both Sides. Check the outside mirrors on both sides frequently. Get out of the vehicle and check your path if you are unsure.

Back Slowly. Always back as slowly as possible. Use the lowest reverse gear. That way you can more easily correct any steering errors. You also can stop quickly if necessary.

Back and Turn Toward the Driver's Side. Back to the driver's side so you can see better. Backing toward the right side is very dangerous because you can't see as well. If you back and turn toward the driver's side, you can watch the rear of your vehicle by looking out the side window. Use driver-side backing--even if it means going around the block to put your vehicle in this position. The added safety is worth it.

Use a Helper. Use a helper when you can. There are blind spots you can't see. That's why a helper is important. The helper should stand near the back of your vehicle where you can see the helper. Before you begin backing, work out a set of hand signals that you both understand. Agree on a signal for "stop."

2.3    Shifting Gears

Correct shifting of gears is important. If you can't get your vehicle into the right gear while driving, you will have less control.

2.3.1 Manual Transmissions

Basic Method for Shifting Up. Most heavy vehicles with manual transmissions require double clutching to change gears. This is the basic method:

• Release accelerator, push in clutch and shift to neutral at the same time.
• Release clutch.
• Let engine and gears slow down to the rpm required for the next gear (this takes practice).
• Push in clutch and shift to the higher gear at the same time.
• Release clutch and press accelerator at the same time.

Shifting gears using double clutching requires practice. If you remain too long in neutral, you may have difficulty putting the vehicle into the next gear. If so, don't try to force it. Return to neutral, release clutch, increase engine speed to match road speed, and try again.

Knowing When to Shift Up. There are two ways of knowing when to shift:

Use Engine Speed (rpm). Study the driver's manual for your vehicle and learn the operating rpm range. Watch your tachometer, and shift up when your engine reaches the top of the range. (Some newer vehicles use "progressive" shifting: the rpm at which you shift becomes higher as you move up in the gears. Find out what's right for the vehicle you will operate.)

Use Road Speed (mph). Learn what speeds each gear is good for. Then, by using the speedometer, you'll know when to shift up.

With either method, you may learn to use engine sounds to know when to shift.

Basic Procedures for Shifting Down

• Release accelerator, push in clutch, and shift to neutral at the same time.
• Release clutch.
• Press accelerator, increase engine and gear speed to the rpm required in the lower gear.
• Push in clutch and shift to lower gear at the same time.
• Release clutch and press accelerator at the same time.
• Downshifting, like upshifting, requires knowing when to shift. Use either the tachometer or the speedometer and downshift at the right rpm or road speed.

Special conditions where you should downshift are:

Before Starting Down a Hill. Slow down and shift down to a speed that you can control without using the brakes hard. Otherwise the brakes can overheat and lose their braking power.

Downshift before starting down the hill. Make sure you are in a low enough gear, usually lower than the gear required to climb the same hill.

Before Entering a Curve. Slow down to a safe speed, and downshift to the right gear before entering the curve. This lets you use some power through the curve to help the vehicle be more stable while turning. It also allows you speed up as soon as you are out of the curve.

2.3.2 Multi-speed Rear Axles and Auxiliary Transmissions

Multi-speed rear axles and auxiliary transmissions are used on many vehicles to provide extra gears. You usually control them by a selector knob or switch on the gearshift lever of the main transmission. There are many different shift patterns. Learn the right way to shift gears in the vehicle you will drive.

2.3.3 Automatic Transmissions

Some vehicles have automatic transmissions. You can select a low range to get greater engine braking when going down grades. The lower ranges prevent the transmission from shifting up beyond the selected gear (unless the governor rpm is exceeded). It is very important to use this braking effect when going down grades.

2.3.4 Retarders

Some vehicles have "retarders." Retarders help slow a vehicle, reducing the need for using your brakes. They reduce brake wear and give you another way to slow down. There are four basic types of retarders (exhaust, engine, hydraulic, and electric). All retarders can be turned on or off by the driver. On some vehicles the retarding power can be adjusted. When turned "on," retarders apply their braking power (to the drive wheels only) whenever you let up on the accelerator pedal all the way.

Because these devices can be noisy, be sure you know where their use is permitted.

Caution. When your drive wheels have poor traction, the retarder may cause them to skid. Therefore, you should turn the retarder off whenever the road is wet, icy, or snow covered.

Subsection 2.2 and 2.3
Test Your Knowledge

1. Why should you back toward the driver's side?
2. If stopped on a hill, how can you start moving without rolling back?
3. When backing, why is it important to use a helper?
4. What's the most important hand signal that you and the helper should agree on?
5. What are the two special conditions where you should downshift?
6. When should you downshift automatic transmissions?
7. Retarders keep you from skidding when the road is slippery. True or False?
8. What are the two ways to know when to shift?

These questions may be on the test. If you can't answer them all, re-read subsections 2.2 and 2.3.

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2.4    Seeing

To be a safe driver you need to know what's going on all around your vehicle. Not looking properly is a major cause of accidents.

2.4.1 Seeing Ahead

Figure 2-6

All drivers look ahead; but many don't look far enough ahead.

Importance of Looking Far Enough Ahead. Because stopping or changing lanes can take a lot of distance, knowing what the traffic is doing on all sides of you is very important. You need to look well ahead to make sure you have room to make these moves safely.

How Far Ahead to Look. Most good drivers look at least 12 to 15 seconds ahead. That means looking ahead the distance you will travel in 12 to 15 seconds. At lower speeds, that's about one block. At highway speeds it's about a quarter of a mile. If you're not looking that far ahead, you may have to stop too quickly or make quick lane changes. Looking 12 to 15 seconds ahead doesn't mean not paying attention to things that are closer. Good drivers shift their attention back and forth, near and far. Figure 2.6 illustrates how far to look ahead.

Look for Traffic. Look for vehicles coming onto the highway, into your lane, or turning. Watch for brake lights from slowing vehicles. By seeing these things far enough ahead, you can change your speed, or change lanes if necessary to avoid a problem. If a traffic light has been green for a long time it will probably change before you get there. Start slowing down and be ready to stop.

2.4.2 Seeing to the Sides and Rear

Figure 2-7

It's important to know what's going on behind and to the sides. Check your mirrors regularly. Check more often in special situations.

Mirror Adjustment. Mirror adjustment should be checked prior to the start of any trip and can only be checked accurately when the trailer(s) are straight. You should check and adjust each mirror to show some part of the vehicle. This will give you a reference point for judging the position of the other images.

Regular Checks. You need to make regular checks of your mirrors to be aware of traffic and to check your vehicle.

Traffic. Check your mirrors for vehicles on either side and in back of you. In an emergency, you may need to know whether you can make a quick lane change. Use your mirrors to spot overtaking vehicles. There are "blind spots" that your mirrors cannot show you. Check your mirrors regularly to know where other vehicles are around you, and to see if they move into your blind spots.

Check Your Vehicle. Use the mirrors to keep an eye on your tires. It's one way to spot a tire fire. If you're carrying open cargo, you can use the mirrors to check it. Look for loose straps, ropes, or chains. Watch for a flapping or ballooning tarp.

Special Situations. Special situations require more than regular mirror checks. These are lane changes, turns, merges, and tight maneuvers.

Lane Changes. You need to check your mirrors to make sure no one is alongside you or about to pass you. Check your mirrors:

• Before you change lanes to make sure there is enough room.
• After you have signaled, to check that no one has moved into your blind spot.
• Right after you start the lane change, to double-check that your path is clear.
• After you complete the lane change.

Turns. In turns, check your mirrors to make sure the rear of your vehicle will not hit anything.

Merges. When merging, use your mirrors to make sure the gap in traffic is large enough for you to enter safely.

Tight Maneuvers. Any time you are driving in close quarters, check your mirrors often. Make sure you have enough clearance.

How to Use Mirrors. Use mirrors correctly by checking them quickly and understanding what you see.

• When you use your mirrors while driving on the road, check quickly. Look back and forth between the mirrors and the road ahead. Don't focus on the mirrors for too long. Otherwise, you will travel quite a distance without knowing what's happening ahead.
• Many large vehicles have curved (convex, "fisheye," "spot," "bugeye") mirrors that show a wider area than flat mirrors. This is often helpful. But everything appears smaller in a convex mirror than it would if you were looking at it directly. Things also seem farther away than they really are. It's important to realize this and to allow for it. Figure 2.7 shows the field of vision using a convex mirror.

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2.5 Communicating

2.5.1 Signal Your Intentions

Other drivers can't know what you are going to do until you tell them.

Signaling what you intend to do is important for safety. Here are some general rules for signaling.

Turns. There are three good rules for using turn signals:

• Signal early. Signal well before you turn. It is the best way to keep others from trying to pass you.
• Signal continuously. You need both hands on the wheel to turn safely. Don't cancel the signal until you have completed the turn.
• Cancel your signal. Don't forget to turn off your turn signal after you've turned (if you don't have self-canceling signals).

Lane Changes. Put your turn signal on before changing lanes. Change lanes slowly and smoothly. That way a driver you didn't see may have a chance to honk his/her horn, or avoid your vehicle.

Slowing Down. Warn drivers behind you when you see you'll need to slow down. A few light taps on the brake pedal -- enough to flash the brake lights -- should warn following drivers. Use the four-way emergency flashers for times when you are driving very slowly or are stopped. Warn other drivers in any of the following situations:

• Trouble Ahead. The size of your vehicle may make it hard for drivers behind you to see hazards ahead. If you see a hazard that will require slowing down, warn the drivers behind by flashing your brake lights.
• Tight Turns. Most car drivers don't know how slowly you have to go to make a tight turn in a large vehicle. Give drivers behind you warning by braking early and slowing gradually.
• Stopping on the Road. Truck and bus drivers sometimes stop in the roadway to unload cargo or passengers, or to stop at a railroad crossing. Warn following drivers by flashing your brake lights. Don't stop suddenly.
• Driving Slowly. Drivers often do not realize how fast they are catching up to a slow vehicle until they are very close. If you must drive slowly, alert following drivers by turning on your emergency flashers if it is legal. (Laws regarding the use of flashers differ from one state to another. Check the laws of the states where you will drive.)

Don't Direct Traffic. Some drivers try to help out others by signaling when it is safe to pass. You should not do this. You could cause an accident. You could be blamed and it could cost you many thousands of dollars.

2.5.2 Communicating Your Presence

Other drivers may not notice your vehicle even when it's in plain sight. To help prevent accidents, let them know you're there.

When Passing. Whenever you are about to pass a vehicle, pedestrian, or bicyclist, assume they don't see you. They could suddenly move in front of you. When it is legal, tap the horn lightly or, at night, flash your lights from low to high beam and back. And, drive carefully enough to avoid a crash even if they don't see or hear you.

When It's Hard to See. At dawn, dusk, in rain, or snow, you need to make yourself easier to see. If you are having trouble seeing other vehicles, other drivers will have trouble seeing you. Turn on your lights. Use the headlights, not just the identification or clearance lights. Use the low beams; high beams can bother people in the daytime as well as at night.

When Parked at the Side of the Road. When you pull off the road and stop, be sure to turn on the four-way emergency flashers. This is important at night. Don't trust the taillights to give warning. Drivers have crashed into the rear of a parked vehicle because they thought it was moving normally.

If you must stop on a road or the shoulder of any road, you must put out your emergency warning devices within ten minutes. Place your warning devices at the following locations:

If you must stop on or by a one-way or divided highway, place warning devices 10 feet, 100 feet, and 200 feet toward the approaching traffic. See Figure 2.8.

If you stop on a two-lane road carrying traffic in both directions or on an undivided highway, place warning devices within 10 feet of the front or rear corners to mark the location of the vehicle and 100 feet behind and ahead of the vehicle, on the shoulder or in the lane you stopped in. See Figure 2.9.

Back beyond any hill, curve, or other obstruction that prevents other drivers from seeing the vehicle within 500 feet. If line of sight view is obstructed due to hill or curve, move the rear-most triangle to a point back down the road so warning is provided. See Figure 2.10.

When putting out the triangles, hold them between yourself and the oncoming traffic for your own safety. (So other drivers can see you.)

Use Your Horn When Needed. Your horn can let others know you're there. It can help to avoid a crash. Use your horn when needed. However, it can startle others and could be dangerous when used unnecessarily.

Figure 2-8

Figure 2-9

Figure 2-10

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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2.6    Controlling Speed

Driving too fast is a major cause of fatal crashes. You must adjust your speed depending on driving conditions. These include traction, curves, visibility, traffic and hills.

2.6.1 Stopping Distance

Figure 2-11

Perception Distance + Reaction Distance + Braking Distance =Total Stopping Distance

Perception Distance. This is the distance your vehicle travels from the time your eyes see a hazard until your brain recognizes it. The perception time for an alert driver is about 3/4 second. At 55 mph, you travel 60 feet in 3/4 second or about 81 feet per second.

Reaction Distance. The distance traveled from the time your brain tells your foot to move from the accelerator until your foot is actually pushing the brake pedal. The average driver has a reaction time of 3/4 second. This accounts for an additional 60 feet traveled at 55 mph.

Braking Distance. The distance it takes to stop once the brakes are put on. At 55 mph on dry pavement with good brakes, it can take a heavy vehicle about 390 feet to stop. It takes about 4 1/2 seconds.

Total Stopping Distance. At 55 mph, it will take about six seconds to stop and your vehicle will travel about 450 feet.

The Effect of Speed on Stopping Distance. Whenever you double your speed, it takes about four times as much distance to stop and your vehicle will have four times the destructive power if it crashes. High speeds increase stopping distances greatly. By slowing down a little, you can gain a lot in reduced braking distance. See Figure 2.11

The Effect of Vehicle Weight on Stopping Distance. The heavier the vehicle, the more work the brakes must do to stop it, and the more heat they absorb. But the brakes, tires, springs, and shock absorbers on heavy vehicles are designed to work best when the vehicle is fully loaded. Empty trucks require greater stopping distances because an empty vehicle has less traction.

2.6.2 Matching Speed to the Road Surface

You can't steer or brake a vehicle unless you have traction. Traction is friction between the tires and the road. There are some road conditions that reduce traction and call for lower speeds.

Slippery Surfaces. It will take longer to stop, and it will be harder to turn without skidding, when the road is slippery. Wet roads can double stopping distance. You must drive slower to be able to stop in the same distance as on a dry road. Reduce speed by about one-third (e.g., slow from 55 to about 35 mph) on a wet road. On packed snow, reduce speed by a half, or more. If the surface is icy, reduce speed to a crawl and stop driving as soon as you can safely do so.

Identifying Slippery Surfaces. Sometimes it's hard to know if the road is slippery. Here are some signs of slippery roads:

• Shaded Areas. Shady parts of the road will remain icy and slippery long after open areas have melted.
• Bridges. When the temperature drops, bridges will freeze before the road will. Be especially careful when the temperature is close to 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Melting Ice. Slight melting will make ice wet. Wet ice is much more slippery than ice that is not wet.
• Black Ice. Black ice is a thin layer that is clear enough that you can see the road underneath it. It makes the road look wet. Any time the temperature is below freezing and the road looks wet, watch out for black ice.
• Vehicle Icing. An easy way to check for ice is to open the window and feel the front of the mirror, mirror support, or antenna. If there's ice on these, the road surface is probably starting to ice up.
• Just After Rain Begins. Right after it starts to rain, the water mixes with oil left on the road by vehicles. This makes the road very slippery. If the rain continues, it will wash the oil away.
• Hydroplaning. In some weather, water or slush collects on the road. When this happens, your vehicle can hydroplane. It's like water skiing--the tires lose their contact with the road and have little or no traction. You may not be able to steer or brake. You can regain control by releasing the accelerator and pushing in the clutch. This will slow your vehicle and let the wheels turn freely. If the vehicle is hydroplaning, do not use the brakes to slow down. If the drive wheels start to skid, push in the clutch to let them turn freely.

It does not take a lot of water to cause hydroplaning. Hydroplaning can occur at speeds as low as 30 mph if there is a lot of water. Hydroplaning is more likely if tire pressure is low, or the tread is worn. (The grooves in a tire carry away the water; if they aren't deep, they don't work well.)

Road surfaces where water can collect can create conditions that cause a vehicle to hydroplane. Watch for clear reflections, tire splashes, and raindrops on the road. These are indications of standing water.

2.6.3 Speed and Curves

Drivers must adjust their speed for curves in the road. If you take a curve too fast, two things can happen. The tires can lose their traction and continue straight ahead, so you skid off the road. Or, the tires may keep their traction and the vehicle rolls over. Tests have shown that trucks with a high center of gravity can roll over at the posted speed limit for a curve.

Slow to a safe speed before you enter a curve. Braking in a curve is dangerous because it is easier to lock the wheels and cause a skid. Slow down as needed. Don't ever exceed the posted speed limit for the curve. Be in a gear that will let you accelerate slightly in the curve. This will help you keep control.

2.6.4 Speed and Distance Ahead

You should always be able to stop within the distance you can see ahead. Fog, rain, or other conditions may require that you slow down to be able to stop in the distance you can see. At night, you can't see as far with low beams as you can with high beams. When you must use low beams, slow down.

2.6.5 Speed and Traffic Flow

When you're driving in heavy traffic, the safest speed is the speed of other vehicles. Vehicles going the same direction at the same speed are not likely to run into one another. In many states, speed limits are lower for trucks and buses than for cars. It can vary as much as 15 mph. Use extra caution when you change lanes or pass on these roadways. Drive at the speed of the traffic, if you can without going at an illegal or unsafe speed. Keep a safe following distance.

The main reason drivers exceed speed limits is to save time. But, anyone trying to drive faster than the speed of traffic will not be able to save much time. The risks involved are not worth it. If you go faster than the speed of other traffic, you'll have to keep passing other vehicles. This increases the chance of a crash, and it is more tiring. Fatigue increases the chance of a crash. Going with the flow of traffic is safer and easier.

2.6.6 Speed on Downgrades

Your vehicle's speed will increase on downgrades because of gravity. Your most important objective is to select and maintain a speed that is not too fast for the:

• Total weight of the vehicle and cargo.
• Length of the grade.
• Steepness of the grade.
• Road conditions.
• Weather.

If a speed limit is posted, or there is a sign indicating "Maximum Safe Speed," never exceed the speed shown. Also, look for and heed warning signs indicating the length and steepness of the grade. You must use the braking effect of the engine as the principal way of controlling your speed on downgrades. The braking effect of the engine is greatest when it is near the governed rpms and the transmission is in the lower gears. Save your brakes so you will be able to slow or stop as required by road and traffic conditions. Shift your transmission to a low gear before starting down the grade and use the proper braking techniques. Please read carefully the section on going down long, steep downgrades safely in "Mountain Driving."

2.6.7 Roadway Work Zones

Speeding traffic is the number one cause of injury and death in roadway work zones. Observe the posted speed limits at all times when approaching and driving through a work zone. Watch your speedometer, and don’t allow your speed to creep up as you drive through long sections of road construction. Decrease your speed for adverse weather or road conditions. Decrease your speed even further when a worker is close to the roadway.

Subsection 2.4, 2.5, and 2.6
Test Your Knowledge

1. How far ahead does the manual say you should look?
2. What are two main things to look for ahead?
3. What's your most important way to see the sides and rear of your vehicle?
4. What does "communicating" mean in safe driving?
5. Where should your reflectors be placed when stopped on a divided highway?
6. What three things add up to total stopping distance?
7. If you go twice as fast, will your stopping distance increase by two or four times?
8. Empty trucks have the best braking. True or False?
9. What is hydroplaning?
10. What is "black ice"?

These questions may be on the test. If you can't answer them all, re-read subsections 2.4, 2.5, and 2.6.

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2.7    Managing Space

To be a safe driver, you need space all around your vehicle. When things go wrong, space gives you time to think and to take action.

To have space available when something goes wrong, you need to manage space. While this is true for all drivers, it is very important for large vehicles. They take up more space and they require more space for stopping and turning.

2.7.1 Space Ahead

Figure 2-12

Of all the space around your vehicle, it is the area ahead of the vehicle--the space you're driving into --that is most important.

The Need for Space Ahead. You need space ahead in case you must suddenly stop. According to accident reports, the vehicle that trucks and buses most often run into is the one in front of them. The most frequent cause is following too closely. Remember, if the vehicle ahead of you is smaller than yours, it can probably stop faster than you can. You may crash if you are following too closely.

How Much Space? How much space should you keep in front of you? One good rule says you need at least one second for each 10 feet of vehicle length at speeds below 40 mph. At greater speeds, you must add 1 second for safety. For example, if you are driving a 40-foot vehicle, you should leave 4 seconds between you and the vehicle ahead. In a 60-foot rig, you'll need 6 seconds. Over 40 mph, you'd need 5 seconds for a 40-foot vehicle and 7 seconds for a 60-foot vehicle. See Figure 2.12.

To know how much space you have, wait until the vehicle ahead passes a shadow on the road, a pavement marking, or some other clear landmark. Then count off the seconds like this: "one thousand- and-one, one thousand-and-two" and so on, until you reach the same spot. Compare your count with the rule of one second for every ten feet of length.

If you are driving a 40-foot truck and only counted up to 2 seconds, you're too close. Drop back a little and count again until you have 4 seconds of following distance (or 5 seconds, if you're going over 40 mph). After a little practice, you will know how far back you should be. Remember to add 1 second for speeds above 40 mph. Also remember that when the road is slippery, you need much more space to stop.

2.7.2 Space Behind

You can't stop others from following you too closely. But there are things you can do to make it safer.

Stay to the Right. Heavy vehicles are often tailgated when they can't keep up with the speed of traffic. This often happens when you're going uphill. If a heavy load is slowing you down, stay in the right lane if you can. Going uphill, you should not pass another slow vehicle unless you can get around quickly and safely.

Dealing with Tailgaters Safely. In a large vehicle, it's often hard to see whether a vehicle is close behind you. You may be tailgated:

• When you are traveling slowly. Drivers trapped behind slow vehicles often follow closely.
• In bad weather. Many car drivers follow large vehicles closely during bad weather, especially when it is hard to see the road ahead.

If you find yourself being tailgated, here are some things you can do to reduce the chances of a crash.

• Avoid quick changes. If you have to slow down or turn, signal early, and reduce speed very gradually.
• Increase your following distance. Opening up room in front of you will help you to avoid having to make sudden speed or direction changes. It also makes it easier for the tailgater to get around you.
• Don't speed up. It's safer to be tailgated at a low speed than a high speed.
• Avoid tricks. Don't turn on your taillights or flash your brake lights. Follow the suggestions above.

2.7.3 Space to the Sides

Commercial vehicles are often wide and take up most of a lane. Safe drivers will manage what little space they have. You can do this by keeping your vehicle centered in your lane, and avoid driving alongside others.

Staying Centered in a Lane. You need to keep your vehicle centered in the lane to keep safe clearance on either side. If your vehicle is wide, you have little room to spare.

Traveling Next to Others. There are two dangers in traveling alongside other vehicles:

• Another driver may change lanes suddenly and turn into you.
• You may be trapped when you need to change lanes.

Find an open spot where you aren't near other traffic. When traffic is heavy, it may be hard to find an open spot. If you must travel near other vehicles, try to keep as much space as possible between you and them. Also, drop back or pull forward so that you are sure the other driver can see you.

Strong Winds. Strong winds make it difficult to stay in your lane. The problem is usually worse for lighter vehicles. This problem can be especially bad coming out of tunnels. Don't drive alongside others if you can avoid it.

2.7.4 Space Overhead

Hitting overhead objects is a danger. Make sure you always have overhead clearance.

• Don't assume that the heights posted at bridges and overpasses are correct. Re-paving or packed snow may have reduced the clearances since the heights were posted.
• The weight of a cargo van changes its height. An empty van is higher than a loaded one. That you got under a bridge when you were loaded does not mean that you can do it when you are empty.
• If you doubt you have safe space to pass under an object, go slowly. If you aren't sure you can make it, take another route. Warnings are often posted on low bridges or underpasses, but sometimes they are not.
• Some roads can cause a vehicle to tilt. There can be a problem clearing objects along the edge of the road, such as signs, trees, or bridge supports. Where this is a problem, drive a little closer to the center of the road.
• Before you back into an area, get out and check for overhanging objects such as trees, branches, or electric wires. It's easy to miss seeing them while you are backing. (Also check for other hazards at the same time.)

2.7.5 Space Below

Many drivers forget about the space under their vehicles. That space can be very small when a vehicle is heavily loaded. This is often a problem on dirt roads and in unpaved yards. Don't take a chance on getting hung up. Drainage channels across roads can cause the ends of some vehicles to drag. Cross such depressions carefully.

Railroad tracks can also cause problems, particularly when pulling trailers with a low underneath clearance. Don’t take a chance on getting hung up halfway across.

2.7.6 Space for Turns

The space around a truck or bus is important in turns. Because of wide turning and offtracking, large vehicles can hit other vehicles or objects during turns.

Right Turns. Here are some rules to help prevent right-turn crashes:

• Turn slowly to give yourself and others more time to avoid problems.
• If you are driving a truck or bus that cannot make the right turn without swinging into another lane, turn wide as you complete the turn. Keep the rear of your vehicle close to the curb. This will stop other drivers from passing you on the right.
• Don't turn wide to the left as you start the turn. A following driver may think you are turning left and try to pass you on the right. You may crash into the other vehicle as you complete your turn.
• If you must cross into the oncoming lane to make a turn, watch out for vehicles coming toward you. Give them room to go by or to stop. However, don't back up for them, because you might hit someone behind you. See Figure 2.13.

Figure 2-13

Figure 2-14

Left Turns. On a left turn, make sure you have reached the center of the intersection before you start the left turn. If you turn too soon, the left side of your vehicle may hit another vehicle because of offtracking.

If there are two turning lanes, always take the right turn lane. Don't start in the inside lane because you may have to swing right to make the turn. Drivers on your left can be more readily seen. See Figure 2.14.

2.7.7 Space Needed to Cross or Enter Traffic

Be aware of the size and weight of your vehicle when you cross or enter traffic. Here are some important things to keep in mind.

• Because of slow acceleration and the space large vehicles require, you may need a much larger gap to enter traffic than you would in a car.
• Acceleration varies with the load. Allow more room if your vehicle is heavily loaded.
• Before you start across a road, make sure you can get all the way across before traffic reaches you.

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2.8    Seeing Hazards

2.8.1 Importance of Seeing Hazards

What Is a Hazard? A hazard is any road condition or other road user (driver, bicyclist, pedestrian) that is a possible danger. For example, a car in front of you is headed toward the freeway exit, but his brake lights come on and he begins braking hard. This could mean that the driver is uncertain about taking the off ramp. He might suddenly return to the highway. This car is a hazard. If the driver of the car cuts in front of you, it is no longer just a hazard; it is an emergency.

Seeing Hazards Lets You Be Prepared. You will have more time to act if you see hazards before they become emergencies. In the example above, you might make a lane change or slow down to prevent a crash if the car suddenly cuts in front of you. Seeing this hazard gives you time to check your mirrors and signal a lane change. Being prepared reduces the danger. A driver who did not see the hazard until the slow car pulled back on the highway in front of him would have to do something very suddenly. Sudden braking or a quick lane change is much more likely to lead to a crash.

Learning to See Hazards. There are often clues that will help you see hazards. The more you drive, the better you can learn to see hazards. This section will talk about hazards that you should be aware of.

2.8.2 Hazardous Roads

Slow down and be very careful if you see any of the following road hazards.

Work Zones. When people are working on the road, it is a hazard. There may be narrower lanes, sharp turns, or uneven surfaces. Other drivers are often distracted and drive unsafely. Workers and construction vehicles may get in the way. Drive slowly and carefully near work zones. Use your four-way flashers or brake lights to warn drivers behind you.

Drop Off. Sometimes the pavement drops off sharply near the edge of the road. Driving too near the edge can tilt your vehicle toward the side of the road. This can cause the top of your vehicle to hit roadside objects (signs, tree limbs). Also, it can be hard to steer as you cross the drop off, going off the road, or coming back on.

Foreign Objects. Things that have fallen on the road can be hazards. They can be a danger to your tires and wheel rims. They can damage electrical and brake lines. They can be caught between dual tires and cause severe damage. Some obstacles that appear to be harmless can be very dangerous. For example, cardboard boxes may be empty, but they may also contain some solid or heavy material capable of causing damage. The same is true of paper and cloth sacks. It is important to remain alert for objects of all sorts, so you can see them early enough to avoid them without making sudden, unsafe moves.

Off Ramps/On Ramps. Freeway and turnpike exits can be particularly dangerous for commercial vehicles. Off ramps and on ramps often have speed limit signs posted. Remember, these speeds may be safe for automobiles, but may not be safe for larger vehicles or heavily loaded vehicles. Exits that go downhill and turn at the same time can be especially dangerous. The downgrade makes it difficult to reduce speed. Braking and turning at the same time can be a dangerous practice. Make sure you are going slowly enough before you get on the curved part of an off ramp or on ramp.

2.8.3 Drivers Who Are Hazards

In order to protect yourself and others, you must know when other drivers may do something hazardous. Some clues to this type of hazard are discussed below.

Blocked Vision. People who can't see others are a very dangerous hazard. Be alert for drivers whose vision is blocked. Vans, loaded station wagons, and cars with the rear window blocked are examples. Rental trucks should be watched carefully. Their drivers are often not used to the limited vision they have to the sides and rear of the truck. In winter, vehicles with frosted, ice-covered, or snow-covered windows are hazards.

Vehicles may be partly hidden by blind intersections or alleys. If you only can see the rear or front end of a vehicle but not the driver, then he or she can't see you. Be alert because he/she may back out or enter into your lane. Always be prepared to stop.

Delivery Trucks Can Present a Hazard. Packages or vehicle doors often block the driver’s vision. Drivers of step vans, postal vehicles, and local delivery vehicles often are in a hurry and may suddenly step out of their vehicle or drive their vehicle into the traffic lane.

Parked Vehicles Can Be Hazards, especially when people start to get out of them. Or, they may suddenly start up and drive into your way. Watch for movement inside the vehicle or movement of the vehicle itself that shows people are inside. Watch for brake lights or backup lights, exhaust, and other clues that a driver is about to move.

Be careful of a stopped bus. Passengers may cross in front of or behind the bus, and they often can't see you.

Pedestrians and Bicyclists Can Also Be Hazards. Walkers, joggers, and bicyclists may be on the road with their back to the traffic, so they can't see you. Sometimes they wear portable stereos with headsets, so they can't hear you either. This can be dangerous. On rainy days, pedestrians may not see you because of hats or umbrellas. They may be hurrying to get out of the rain and may not pay attention to the traffic.

Distractions. People who are distracted are hazards. Watch for where they are looking. If they are looking elsewhere, they can't see you. But be alert even when they are looking at you. They may believe that they have the right of way.

Children. Children tend to act quickly without checking traffic. Children playing with one another may not look for traffic and are a serious hazard.

Talkers. Drivers or pedestrians talking to one another may not be paying close attention to the traffic.

Workers. People working on or near the roadway are a hazard clue. The work creates a distraction for other drivers and the workers themselves may not see you.

Ice Cream Trucks. Someone selling ice cream is a hazard clue. Children may be nearby and may not see you.

Disabled Vehicles. Drivers changing a tire or fixing an engine often do not pay attention to the danger that roadway traffic is to them. They are often careless. Jacked up wheels or raised hoods are hazard clues.

Accidents. Accidents are particularly hazardous. People involved in the accident may not look for traffic. Passing drivers tend to look at the accident. People often run across the road without looking. Vehicles may slow or stop suddenly.

Shoppers. People in and around shopping areas are often not watching traffic because they are looking for stores or looking into store windows.

Confused Drivers. Confused drivers often change direction suddenly or stop without warning. Confusion is common near freeway or turnpike interchanges and major intersections. Tourists unfamiliar with the area can be very hazardous. Clues to tourists include car-top luggage and out-of-state license plates. Unexpected actions (stopping in the middle of a block, changing lanes for no apparent reason, backup lights suddenly going on) are clues to confusion. Hesitation is another clue, including driving very slowly, using brakes often, or stopping in the middle of an intersection. You may also see drivers who are looking at street signs, maps, and house numbers. These drivers may not be paying attention to you.

Slow Drivers. Motorists who fail to maintain normal speed are hazards. Seeing slow moving vehicles early can prevent a crash. Some vehicles, by their nature, are slow and seeing them is a hazard clue (mopeds, farm machinery, construction machinery, tractors, etc.). Some of these will have the "slow moving vehicle" symbol to warn you. This is a red triangle with an orange center. Watch for it.

Drivers Signaling a Turn May Be a Hazard. Drivers signaling a turn may slow more than expected or stop. If they are making a tight turn into an alley or driveway, they may go very slowly. If pedestrians or other vehicles block them, they may have to stop on the roadway. Vehicles turning left may have to stop for oncoming vehicles.

Drivers in a Hurry. Drivers may feel your commercial vehicle is preventing them from getting where they want to go on time. Such drivers may pass you without a safe gap in the oncoming traffic, cutting too close in front of you. Drivers entering the road may pull in front of you in order to avoid being stuck behind you, causing you to brake. Be aware of this and watch for drivers who are in a hurry.

Impaired Drivers. Drivers who are sleepy, have had too much to drink, are on drugs, or who are ill are hazards. Some clues to these drivers are:

• Weaving across the road or drifting from one side to another.
• Leaving the road (dropping right wheels onto the shoulder, or bumping across a curb in a turn).
• Stopping at the wrong time (stopping at a green light, or waiting for too long at a stop).
• Open window in cold weather.
• Speeding up or slowing down suddenly, driving too fast or too slow.

Be alert for drunk drivers and sleepy drivers late at night.

Driver Body Movement as a Clue. Drivers look in the direction they are going to turn. You may sometimes get a clue from a driver's head and body movements that a driver may be going to make a turn, even though the turn signals aren't on. Drivers making over-the-shoulder checks may be going to change lanes. These clues are most easily seen in motorcyclists and bicyclists. Watch other road users and try to tell whether they might do something hazardous.

Conflicts. You are in conflict when you have to change speed and/or direction to avoid hitting someone. Conflicts occur at intersections where vehicles meet, at merges (such as turnpike on ramps) and where there are needed lane changes (such as the end of a lane, forcing a move to another lane of traffic). Other situations include slow moving or stalled traffic in a traffic lane, and accident scenes. Watch for other drivers who are in conflict because they are a hazard to you. When they react to this conflict, they may do something that will put them in conflict with you.

2.8.4 Always Have a Plan

You should always be looking for hazards. Continue to learn to see hazards on the road. However, don't forget why you are looking for the hazards--they may turn into emergencies. You look for the hazards in order to have time to plan a way out of any emergency. When you see a hazard, think about the emergencies that could develop and figure out what you would do. Always be prepared to take action based on your plans. In this way, you will be a prepared, defensive driver who will improve your own safety as well as the safety of all road users.

Subsection 2.7 and 2.8
Test Your Knowledge

1. How do you find out how many seconds of following distance space you have?
2. If you are driving a 30-foot vehicle at 55 mph, how many seconds of following distance should you allow?
3. You should decrease your following distance if somebody is following you too closely. True or False?
4. If you swing wide to the left before turning right, another driver may try to pass you on the right. True or False?
5. What is a hazard?
6. Why make emergency plans when you see a hazard?

These questions may be on the test. If you can’t answer them all, re-read subsections 2.7 and 2.8

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2.9    Distracted Driving

Whenever you are driving a vehicle and your attention is not on the road, you’re putting yourself, your passengers, other vehicles, and pedestrians in danger. Distracted driving can result when you perform any activity that may shift your full attention from the driving task. Taking your eyes off the road or hands off the steering wheel presents obvious driving risks. Mental activities that take your mind away from driving are just as dangerous. Your eyes can gaze at objects in the driving scene but fail to see them because your attention is distracted elsewhere.

Activities that can distract your attention include: talking to passengers; adjusting the radio, CD player or climate controls; eating, drinking or smoking; reading maps or other literature; picking up something that fell; reading billboards and other road advertisements; watching other people and vehicles including aggressive drivers; talking on a cell phone or CB radio; using telematic devices (such as navigation systems, pagers, etc.); daydreaming or being occupied with other mental distractions.

2.9.1 Don’t Drive Distracted

If drivers react a half-second slower because of distractions, crashes double. Some tips to follow so you won’t become distracted:

• Review and be totally familiar with all safety and usage features on any in-vehicle electronics, including your wireless or cell phone, before you drive.
• Pre-program radio stations.
• Pre-load you favorite CDs or cassette tapes.
• Clear the vehicle of any unnecessary objects.
• Review maps and plan your route before you begin driving.
• Adjust all mirrors for best all-round visibility before you start your trip.
• Don’t attempt to read or write while you drive.
• Avoid smoking, eating and drinking while you drive.
• Don't engage in complex or emotionally intense conversations with other occupants.

2.9.2 Use In-vehicle Communication Equipment Cautiously

• When possible, pull off the road in a safe, legal place when making/receiving a call on communication equipment.
• If possible, turn the cell phone off until your destination is reached.
• Position the cell phone within easy reach.
• Pre-program cell phones with commonly called numbers.
• If you have to place a call, find a safe place to pull off the road. Do not place a call while driving.
• Some jurisdictions require that only hands-free devices can be used while driving. Even these devices are unsafe to use when you are moving down the road.
• If you must use your cell phone, keep conversations short. Develop ways to get free of long-winded friends and associates while on the road. Never use the cell phone for social visiting.
• Hang up in tricky traffic situations.
• Do not use the equipment when approaching locations with heavy traffic, road construction, heavy pedestrian traffic, or severe weather conditions.
• Do not attempt to type or read messages on your satellite system while driving.

2.9.3 Watch Out for Other Distracted Drivers

You need to be able to recognize other drivers who are engaged in any form of driving distraction. Not recognizing other distracted drivers can prevent you from perceiving or reacting correctly in time to prevent a crash. Watch for:

• Vehicles that may drift over the lane divider lines or within their own lane.
• Vehicles traveling at inconsistent speeds.
• Drivers who are preoccupied with maps, food, cigarettes, cell phones, or other objects.
• Drivers who appear to be involved in conversations with their passengers.

Give a distracted driver plenty of room and maintain your safe following distance.

Be very careful when passing a driver who seems to be distracted. The other driver may not be aware of your presence, and they may drift in front of you.

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2.10    Aggressive Drivers

2.10.1 What Is It?

Aggressive driving and road rage is not a new problem. However, in today’s world, where heavy and slow-moving traffic and tight schedules are the norm, more and more drivers are taking out their anger and frustration in their vehicles.

Crowded roads leave little room for error, leading to suspicion and hostility among drivers and encouraging them to take personally the mistakes of other drivers.

Aggressive driving is the act of operating a motor vehicle in a selfish, bold, or pushy manner, without regard for the rights or safety of others.

Road rage is operating a motor vehicle with the intent of doing harm to others or physically assaulting a driver or their vehicle.

2.10.2 Don’t Be an Aggressive Driver

How you feel before you even start your vehicle has a lot to do with how stress will affect you while driving.

• Reduce your stress before and while you drive. Listen to “easy listening” music.
• Give the drive your full attention. Don’t allow yourself to become distracted by talking on your cell phone, eating, etc.
• Be realistic about your travel time. Expect delays because of traffic, construction, or bad weather and make allowances.
• If you’re going to be later than you expected – deal with it. Take a deep breath and accept the delay.
• Give other drivers the benefit of the doubt. Try to imagine why he or she is driving that way. Whatever their reason, it has nothing to do with you.
• Slow down and keep your following distance reasonable.
• Don’t drive slowly in the left lane of traffic.
• Avoid gestures. Keep you hands on the wheel. Avoid making any gestures that might anger another driver, even seemingly harmless expressions of irritation like shaking your head.
• Be a cautious and courteous driver. If another driver seems eager to get in front of you, say, “Be my guest.” This response will soon become a habit and you won’t be as offended by other drivers’ actions.

2.10.3 What You Should Do When Confronted by an Aggressive Driver

• First and foremost, make every attempt to get out of their way.
• Put your pride in the back seat. Do not challenge them by speeding up or attempting to hold-your-own in your travel lane.
• Avoid eye contact.
• Ignore gestures and refuse to react to them.
• Report aggressive drivers to the appropriate authorities by providing a vehicle description, license number, location and, if possible, direction of travel.
• If you have a cell phone, and can do it safely, call the police.
• If an aggressive driver is involved in a crash farther down the road, stop a safe distance from the crash scene, wait for the police to arrive, and report the driving behavior that you witnessed.

Subsection 2.9 and 2.10
Test Your Knowledge

1. What are some tips to follow so you won’t become a distracted driver?
2. How do you use in-vehicle communications equipment cautiously?
3. How do you recognize a distracted driver?
4. What is the difference between aggressive driving and road rage?
5. What should you do when confronted with an aggressive driver?
6. What are some things you can do to reduce your stress before and while you drive?

These questions may be on the test. If you can’t answer them all, re-read subsections 2.9 and 2.10

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2.11    Driving at Night

2.11.1 It's More Dangerous

You are at greater risk when you drive at night. Drivers can't see hazards as quickly as in daylight, so they have less time to respond. Drivers caught by surprise are less able to avoid a crash.

The problems of night driving involve the driver, the roadway, and the vehicle.

2.11.2 Driver Factors

Vision. People can't see as sharply at night or in dim light. Also, their eyes need time to adjust to seeing in dim light. Most people have noticed this when walking into a dark movie theater.

Glare. Drivers can be blinded for a short time by bright light. It takes time to recover from this blindness. Older drivers are especially bothered by glare. Most people have been temporarily blinded by camera flash units or by the high beams of an oncoming vehicle. It can take several seconds to recover from glare. Even two seconds of glare blindness can be dangerous. A vehicle going 55 mph will travel more than half the distance of a football field during that time. Don't look directly at bright lights when driving. Look at the right side of the road. Watch the sidelines when someone coming toward you has very bright lights on.

Fatigue and Lack of Alertness. Fatigue (being tired) and lack of alertness are bigger problems at night. The body's need for sleep is beyond a person's control. Most people are less alert at night, especially after midnight. This is particularly true if you have been driving for a long time. Drivers may not see hazards as soon, or react as quickly, so the chance of a crash is greater. If you are sleepy, the only safe cure is to get off the road and get some sleep. If you don't, you risk your life and the lives of others.

2.11.3 Roadway Factors

Poor Lighting. In the daytime there is usually enough light to see well. This is not true at night. Some areas may have bright street lights, but many areas will have poor lighting. On most roads you will probably have to depend entirely on your headlights.

Less light means you will not be able to see hazards as well as in daytime. Road users who do not have lights are hard to see. There are many accidents at night involving pedestrians, joggers, bicyclists, and animals.

Even when there are lights, the road scene can be confusing. Traffic signals and hazards can be hard to see against a background of signs, shop windows, and other lights.

Drive slower when lighting is poor or confusing.

Drive slowly enough to be sure you can stop in the distance you can see ahead.

Drunk Drivers. Drunk drivers and drivers under the influence of drugs are a hazard to themselves and to you. Be especially alert around the closing times for bars and taverns. Watch for drivers who have trouble staying in their lane or maintaining speed, who stop without reason, or show other signs of being under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

2.11.4 Vehicle Factors

Headlights. At night your headlights will usually be the main source of light for you to see by and for others to see you. You can't see nearly as much with your headlights as you see in the daytime. With low beams you can see ahead about 250 feet and with high beams about 350-500 feet. You must adjust your speed to keep your stopping distance within your sight distance. This means going slowly enough to be able to stop within the range of your headlights. Otherwise, by the time you see a hazard, you will not have time to stop.

Night driving can be more dangerous if you have problems with your headlights. Dirty headlights may give only half the light they should. This cuts down your ability to see, and makes it harder for others to see you. Make sure your lights are clean and working. Headlights can be out of adjustment. If they don't point in the right direction, they won't give you a good view and they can blind other drivers. Have a qualified person make sure they are adjusted properly.

Other Lights. In order for you to be seen easily, the following must be clean and working properly:

• Reflectors.
• Marker lights.
• Clearance lights.
• Taillights.
• Identification lights.

Turn Signals and Brake Lights. At night your turn signals and brake lights are even more important for telling other drivers what you intend to do. Make sure you have clean, working turn signals and stop lights.

Windshield and Mirrors. It is more important at night than in the daytime to have a clean windshield and clean mirrors. Bright lights at night can cause dirt on your windshield or mirrors to create a glare of its own, blocking your view. Most people have experienced driving toward the sun just as it has risen or is about to set, and found that they can barely see through a windshield that seemed to look OK in the middle of the day. Clean your windshield on the inside and outside for safe driving at night.

2.11.5 Night Driving Procedures

Pre-trip Procedures. Make sure you are rested and alert. If you are drowsy, sleep before you drive! Even a nap can save your life or the lives of others. If you wear eyeglasses, make sure they are clean and unscratched. Don't wear sunglasses at night. Do a complete pre-trip inspection of your vehicle. Pay attention to checking all lights and reflectors, and cleaning those you can reach.

Avoid Blinding Others. Glare from your headlights can cause problems for drivers coming toward you. They can also bother drivers going in the same direction you are, when your lights shine in their rearview mirrors. Dim your lights before they cause glare for other drivers. Dim your lights within 500 feet of an oncoming vehicle and when following another vehicle within 500 feet.

Avoid Glare from Oncoming Vehicles. Do not look directly at lights of oncoming vehicles. Look slightly to the right at a right lane or edge marking, if available. If other drivers don't put their low beams on, don't try to "get back at them" by putting your own high beams on. This increases glare for oncoming drivers and increases the chance of a crash.

Use High Beams When You Can. Some drivers make the mistake of always using low beams. This seriously cuts down on their ability to see ahead. Use high beams when it is safe and legal to do so. Use them when you are not within 500 feet of an approaching vehicle. Also, don't let the inside of your cab get too bright. This makes it harder to see outside. Keep the interior light off, and adjust your instrument lights as low as you can to still be able to read the gauges.

If You Get Sleepy, Stop Driving at the Nearest Safe Place. People often don't realize how close they are to falling asleep even when their eyelids are falling shut. If you can safely do so, look at yourself in a mirror. If you look sleepy, or you just feel sleepy, stop driving! You are in a very dangerous condition. The only safe cure is to sleep.

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2.12    Driving in Fog

Fog can occur at any time. Fog on highways can be extremely dangerous. Fog is often unexpected, and visibility can deteriorate rapidly. You should watch for foggy conditions and be ready to reduce your speed. Do not assume that the fog will thin out after you enter it.

The best advice for driving in fog is don’t. It is preferable that you pull off the road into a rest area or truck stop until visibility is better. If you must drive, be sure to consider the following:

• Obey all fog-related warning signs.
• Slow down before you enter fog.
• Use low-beam headlights and fog lights for best visibility even in daytime, and be alert for other drivers who may have forgotten to turn on their lights.
• Turn on your 4-way flashers. This will give vehicles approaching you from behind a quicker opportunity to notice your vehicle.
• Watch for vehicles on the side of the roadway. Seeing taillights or headlights in front of you may not be a true indication of where the road is ahead of you. The vehicle may not b